We’ve been taking the van to Cornwall since our very first summer with it in 2018. Eight years and more trips than we can count later, this is everything we’ve learned: where we swim, where we stay, and how we’d plan it now.
The water is the thread through all of it. Every place here is somewhere we’ve swum, surfed, rock-pooled or at least stood on the edge thinking about it.
How we’d plan it: three bases, nine nights
Pick a few bases and do day trips from each. You’ll pack down less and spend far more time in the water.
| Base | Nights | Day trips from here |
|---|---|---|
| North coast, near Tintagel | 2 | Tintagel Castle and the caves at low tide, Bude Sea Pool, Watergate Bay surf |
| St Ives Bay, Gwithian or Hayle | 3 | Godrevy seals and lighthouse, St Agnes and Porthtowan, St Ives, Sennen surf, Land’s End |
| The Lizard | 4 | Kynance at low tide, Gunwalloe, Poldhu, Lizard Point, Marazion and St Michael’s Mount |
We learned this the hard way. Our first trip was five campsites in nine nights, and we spent more time packing up than swimming. Read how that went.
North coast: Bude to Newquay
Bude and the Bude Sea Pool. We’ve been to Bude a few times, both before and after the tree on the green came down. The sea pool is our favourite thing here: free, built into the rocks at Summerleaze beach, and perfect for getting a few lengths in whatever the sea is doing. Summerleaze itself is beautiful, and Rosie’s café is our stop afterwards. Bude is also home to vanlife guru Martin Dorey, who we’ve had the pleasure of meeting a few times, and where he started the #2minutebeachclean movement. His Take the Slow Road books have inspired so many of our adventures. If you’ve never used them to plan a trip, you’re missing a trick. Widemouth Bay is just down the coast for surf, and Sand Parks campsite has direct beach access.
Widemouth Bay. In August 2020 we camped at Sand Parks, an informal field right opposite the beach, which is just the way we like it. No frills: a water tap and a waste point, and that’s your lot. What more do you need? Dinner was fresh fish from the Beach House wet fish shop at the bottom of the field: hake and chips for the kids, garlic butter king prawns, lemon sole and sea bass for us. We’re not foodies, but that was pretty special. Then the wind arrived. We took the toilet tent down, sheltered along the hedge, and all four of us (and all the gear) huddled downstairs in the van for the night while the kids made a den in the boot. By morning the beach was red flagged and we took a proper sandblasting, so we cut our losses and headed home a day early, planning to soften the blow with hand-sized scones at Margaret’s Rustic Tea Garden. It was closed due to bad weather. Second year running we’d missed a Cornish cream tea. Instead we went back to Crooklets for the dirtiest fries ever at Rosie’s, and I bought a souvenir T-shirt from Martin’s 2 Minute Beach Clean shop.
Tintagel. Fish and chips on the cliffs, blackberries on the coast path, and the castle, with its giant statue that everyone assumes is King Arthur. The Arthur link is loose at best. At low tide you can swim into the caves below the castle. We only found out afterwards. Overnight: the Old Tintagel Country Club car park and Bossiney Cove both take vans. Check rules on arrival.
Polzeath. Sea, swim, sauna, repeat. We’ve done an October half term and a May bank holiday here with friends, and both times we never moved the van. Tristram campsite sits above the beach with direct access down the rocks. Swim in the sea, then warm up in the Saunas by the Sea beach sauna while you look straight back out at it. Lush. (Our sauna session was gifted.) Good surf too. Walk the coast path to Rock and take the ferry across to Padstow, then come back for live music at the Surfside beach bar. Everything else in Polzeath is on the doorstep. It’s also where I decided I’d had enough of standing on the sidelines holding the bags while the boys had all the fun. Middle-aged mum learning to surf: I carry my own board, wax it myself, and despite my goofy stance, I’m up in the whitewater. No campfires, though. And it’s pronounced Pol-zeth, not Pol-zeeth. You’re welcome. Tips: book the sauna ahead in summer, and check it’s running before you go. Bring your levelling chocks. We forgot ours once and were severely on the wonk.
Watergate Bay. Where we first surfed in Cornwall, on hired boards before we had kit of our own.
Fistral and Crantock. Fistral is the home of surf, and incredible fish and chips. The forecast said rain and it turned into an absolute scorcher. It looked far too busy at first, but pack light and keep walking until you find your spot. On another visit we ate Rick Stein fish and chips in the van and tried oysters for the first time. Just round the headland, Crantock has a tidal stream running alongside the beach that kept the kids busy all evening. We stayed for dinner with a view. Perfect, until the heavens opened.
Porth Beach, Newquay. Insta vs reality, surf edition. On camera it looks idyllic: the four of us heading down for a surf. In reality the wind was blasting. This is also where we put our awning up for the very first time, on our April 2026 trip. Storm Dave was forecast, and we mostly missed it. The real storm was waiting for us at Land’s End. We still surfed the next day, but carrying the boards down the beach in that wind was a workout in itself.
Cornish Tipi Holidays. Three nights in a large tipi over an August bank holiday weekend, with a perfect wild swimming lake in the old Tregildrans quarry: secluded, spring fed, and ideal for early morning dips. We swam, dived, kayaked and rowed our way through the weekend. James learned to dive. Dan learned he couldn’t fish. He spent the whole day on a purpose-stocked lake and caught one trout. Technically two: the first flapped out of his hands and jumped straight back in. We cooked the survivor on the open fire. If you’d rather someone else did the cooking, the on-site gastro pub was superb. Next time I’d love to bring the van and camp. How we won it. We won this stay in a giveaway run by Mama Still Got It.
St Agnes to Portreath
Chapel Porth to Trevaunance: our favourite walk. Start at Chapel Porth, a perfect family beach: lifeguards, caves to explore, gently sloping sand, and the tide doesn’t go out too far, so it’s easier to keep an eye on the kids. Not much sand at high tide, but it reveals a soft sandy beach as the sea drops, and the surf gets a bit spicy as the tide turns, which is great for bodyboarding. There’s a freshwater stream through the car park, perfect for rinsing sandy feet before you get back in the van. The café does the famous hedgehog ice cream, and if you want something savoury, the Rosemary Croque: mushrooms cooked in clotted cream on toasted granary. Then walk the coast path past Wheal Coates, the old tin mine engine houses. Iconic, especially when the pink heather is out. Throw a pebble into the mineshaft and hear it drop all the way to the sea. It kept the kids (and the big kids) entertained for ages. For a short walk, go out to St Agnes Head and back, about 2 miles. Or carry on to Trevaunance Cove at St Agnes, about 9km there and back. On that one, the fog came down, the view whited out, and we walked back through hailstones. A lesson in resilience for the kids. Also at Trevaunance Tommy stepped on a weever fish. Lifeguard first aid and a bucket of hot water sorted him out, and he walked all the way back on a stingy foot. We made it to the café just in time, and the National Trust lady gave him a bonus flake. Tips: the car park is small, free for National Trust members, and once it’s full, it’s full. Wear swim shoes at low tide. High tide is a good time for the walk.
Porthtowan tidal pool. My favourite tidal pool so far, and I’m getting slightly addicted to seeking them out. Breakfast at the café on the wall above the beach, then round to the tidal pool with friends. We jumped off the rocks into the pool. The kids did it in their pants because I’d forgotten their trunks. Porthtowan is worth a visit for more than the pool: a stunning sandy cove and great little beachfront restaurants. Tips: the pool is only reachable at low tide, after a tricky scramble over the rocks to the right of the bay. It’s only about 5ft deep, and the sand moves, so always check the depth before jumping. The water can be colder than you expect. And don’t get cut off by the tide.
Portreath. A beautiful beach between Godrevy and St Agnes. When the tide goes out it reveals a secluded stretch of sand with dramatic caves and rock pools, and it feels a million miles from everyone bunched up on the main beach. Good surf, harbour walls to explore, and walks up to the Pepperpot and beyond. We had a delicious ciabatta roll for breakfast at The Hub. This was our last morning before heading home, and we wished we could have stayed longer. Tips: easy access from the car park, but it fills up quickly, and check payment options before you go. It was cash only when we visited.
Lady Basset’s Baths, Portreath. Six bath-sized tidal pools carved into the rocks to the west of Portreath beach, all at different levels to catch the rising tide. They were cut by William Harry in 1782 to give Lady Basset of Tehidy Park sheltered access to the benefits of sea bathing. We only found four of the six, and they’re rather full of seaweed, so getting in is for the brave. We also missed the larger, more recent pool dammed near the harbour wall. A great excuse to go back. Tip: go at low tide, when they’re easiest to find.
St Ives Bay
Gwithian and Godrevy. Walk over the dunes for sunset, then get up early and park facing Godrevy lighthouse. We’ve swum here, watched seals, and gone crabbing in the rock pools. That last one ended badly. You’ll have to read the story.
Hayle. We stayed at Beachside, right on the beach, the weekend the G7 came to Carbis Bay in June 2021. Biden’s motorcade gave us a toot on the A30, military ships and aircraft filled the bay, the Red Arrows flew over, and on the beach at Sandy Acres there was Mount Recyclemore, a Mount Rushmore of the G7 leaders’ heads built from electronic waste. It added quite an exciting dimension to the trip. It’s not often you get to take a dip in the sea with battleships on the horizon. I swam in my Deakin & Blue swimsuit, made from ECONYL regenerated nylon from old fishing nets, as my own private, peaceful protest in front of the G7. Followed by a quick evening dip in front of Bojo and friends.
Where to stay in St Ives Bay: Beachside has direct access down to Gwithian beach with views out to Godrevy, a heated outdoor pool, a playground and football field, a restaurant and bar with tasty food, and a little pop-up bar overlooking the beach. It’s not the most scenic camping field (you know us, we’d rather be on a rugged clifftop), but it’s the easiest walk back from the beach carrying surfboards. Gwithian Farm and Sandy Acres nearby are more rustic, if that’s your preference.
St Ives. We love staying in the van at Ayr Holiday Park, the perfect base for exploring every nook and cranny of St Ives, from the beaches to the town. Take the coast path straight from the site for a lovely walk down to Porthmeor. Parking in St Ives is always a challenge, so being able to leave the van where it is makes a huge difference. In summer 2023 it was freezing and windy on the beach. I tried to pretend it was tropical for the ‘gram in my bikini, but my mate gave it away in her big coat. Walk along the harbour wall to look for seals. We watched a grey seal there. Tate St Ives was a surprise hit with the kids. The nudes may have helped.
Our St Ives beach guide:
- Porthmeor for surfing and pizza. In summer 2023 we were here with the Herding Cats, our WhatsApp group of seven families of school-parent friends. Getting a group photo was hard enough. Booking a table for all of us was impossible. Pizza on the beach was the perfect solution
- Porthminster for swimming and basking in the sun
- Porthgwidden for beers on the beach with friends
- The best secret beach? It wouldn’t be a secret then, would it.
Tips: book Tate tickets in advance. If you’re not staying in town, we parked a little way out at the rugby club. And don’t let your guard down when you’re eating outside. The seagulls are brutal. They ambush in gangs. Absolute thugs.
The far west
Sennen Cove. We’ve been about three times. On our first trip we surfed here in the one spell of sunshine all week, then had dinner at the Old Success Inn. That first trip also gave us our closest call. The weather turned, a channel opened up, and Tommy got into difficulty. I reached him just as the lifeguards on jet skis went for him. Conditions here turn fast. Tips: always surf and swim between the red and yellow flags on a lifeguarded beach. If you’re caught in a rip, don’t swim against it. Float, raise a hand and shout for help, and the lifeguards will come.
Land’s End. Drive there on the B3306 from St Ives, a beautiful coastal road. Take your photo by the cheap makeshift sign, not the official paid one, and have a gin in the First and Last Inn. It’s also where a storm with no name tried to take our awning, a couple of days after we’d dodged Storm Dave in Newquay. Not one forecast mentioned it. Read that one here.
The Minack Theatre. A spectacular open-air theatre carved into the cliffs above Porthcurno. After failing countless times on summer visits, I finally got tickets one October half term: front row for Horrible Histories, Gorgeous Georgians and Vile Victorians. The kids loved it, and it was educational to boot. Added entertainment: watching the props blow off the cliff. Tip: summer tickets sell out fast, so book early or go out of season. It’s about an hour’s drive from the Lizard.
Porthcurno. The beach below the Minack. Just wow.
Pedn Vounder. Words can’t express what a stunning beach this is, and you know it’s going to be worth it when you read how hard it is to get to. The last stretch down from the coast path is a near-vertical scramble, but once you’re down, it’s so sheltered it felt warm on an October afternoon. It’s a semi-naturist beach. It feels good to be free. While we were there we found a wounded baby seal and called for help. Tips: wear proper shoes, carry a rucksack so your hands are free, and check the tides, as the beach isn’t lifeguarded. If you find an injured seal, keep your distance and call British Divers Marine Life Rescue. Full route and climbing advice in our Lizard half term post.
Mousehole. We stayed at Mousehole Camping, a basic but perfectly adequate little campsite in the grounds of Mousehole AFC. Flat pitches and all the basics. The showers are the team changing rooms, ladies home, gents away, which might be a deal breaker for some, though nobody else was ever in there when I was. There’s a family room too: ask reception for the key code. We even caught a pre-season friendly between Mousehole and Mullion, which is great free entertainment. The harbour is a mile’s walk downhill, and I loved a morning jog down there before the kids woke up. There’s a pub 500m down the road. Great value, a perfect base for the Penwith beaches, and just 30 minutes across to St Ives. Tips: don’t cut across the pitch to the toilet block. You have to go round. And don’t drive a motorhome into the village. Possibly don’t drive anything in.
Marazion and St Michael’s Mount. A pasty on the beach looking out at the Mount on our first trip. On a later visit we spent a whole day on the island. We walked across the causeway at low tide and caught the boat back once the tide came in (£8 for the four of us). Surprisingly, the boys loved it: the online tour has QR codes with tales of giant-slaying children, and they shocked me with their knowledge of medieval weaponry. We also bumped into Dan’s mum’s best friend. Such a small world. Tips: book tickets on the website. They were free for us as National Trust members. And check the tide times for the causeway.
Penzance and the Jubilee Pool. Just gorgeous. An art deco open-air lido on the seafront. I swam here one sunny August morning. What a treat. Tips: book online in advance, as sessions run in one-hour slots, and get there in good time because parking is tricky. It’s said to be a degree or two warmer than the sea, and wetsuits are allowed if you need one.
The Lizard
Kynance Cove. White sand, turquoise water and rock islands, but only once the tide drops. At high tide it’s standing room only. We arrived early with the kids in pyjamas, ate breakfast in the car park, and ended up being interviewed by the BBC about overtourism. We went back one October half term, when it was far less busy than the height of summer, and just beautiful. Tip: arrive early for parking, then wait for low tide. Or go out of season.
Gunwalloe Church Cove. A little church right on the beach. We explored the cove and the church, then had dinner at the Halzephron Inn. An easy, lovely evening.
Poldhu Cove. Another favourite haunt, and where we bought the tin mugs we still use on every trip. A great little surf beach with a great little beach café, 15 minutes from Henry’s. On our October half term, the starling murmuration above the reed bed at dusk was truly a sight to behold.
Lizard Point and the lighthouse. The most southerly point of mainland Britain. Start with breakfast at Polpeor Café, overlooking the sea. It wouldn’t be a trip to the Lizard without getting completely battered by a storm. One October night the foghorn sounded continuously and the van swayed in the wind. Not much sleep was had. So we met the storm head on and took a tour to the top of the lighthouse with the foghorn blaring. It was ace. Great guide, and the kids loved the activities in the Heritage Centre. Then, like four little drowned rats, back to Polpeor for a hot meal. Tip: the lighthouse is a brilliant bad-weather plan, and you get remarkably close to the massive light.
Cadgwith and the Devil’s Frying Pan. When the weather turned, we explored this pretty little fishing village and walked the coast path round to the Devil’s Frying Pan rock arch. Tip: the beach to the right of the jetty is a beautiful spot for a swim on a calmer day.
Henry’s campsite. Such a cool site, and unlike anywhere else we’ve stayed in the UK. Rustic, ramshackle, with a lovely family vibe. A few degrees warmer and it could be a tropical island. The communal spaces set it apart: the Dingo Den, with old sofas, board games and wifi, where the kids happily took themselves off instead of cluttering up the van, and opposite it the Ollie Roger, a galleon-style seating area where we played Yahtzee into the early hours. Add pet guinea pigs, farm animals, a football field, badminton nets and circus toys, and getting the boys to leave was a major challenge. A tiny on-site shop has the essentials. Lizard village is a couple of minutes’ walk away, with the Witchball and the Top House Inn for decent pub grub, and Ann’s Pasties. Walk the other way down a little lane to the cliffs for a sundowner. The sunset on our first evening made the seven-hour drive worth every minute. More from that week in Half Term on the Lizard.
Where we’ve stayed
Trewethett Farm (Tintagel), Tristram (Polzeath), Sand Parks (Widemouth Bay), Porth Beach (Newquay), Gwithian Farm, Beachside (Hayle), Ayr (St Ives), Trevaylor (St Ives), Trevedra Farm (Gwynver), Trevassack (Helston), Mousehole Camping, Cornish Tipi Holidays and Henry’s (the Lizard). For our favourite sites by the water across the UK, see our campsites with surf beach access and campsites for sea swimming.
Practical tips
- Tides decide everything. Kynance, the Tintagel caves and the tidal pools all depend on them.
- Arrive early. The best car parks fill by mid-morning in summer.
- Pick bases, not a route. Pack down less, swim more.
- Wear swim shoes on rocky or weedy entries. Weever fish are real.
- Lanes are narrow. A California copes. Bigger vans, think twice about villages like Mousehole and St Ives.
- Check the wind with a proper forecast app like Windy before pitching an awning on the coast.
Planning your own Cornwall trip? Everything we pack is in our family campervan kit list and packing checklist, and our wild swimming guide covers how we swim safely as a family. Got a favourite spot we’ve missed? Tell us in the comments.
Our sauna session at Polzeath was gifted, and our Cornish Tipi Holidays stay was a giveaway prize. All opinions are our own.